Ballsy cooking. If you’ve ever driven without a seatbelt you’ll like it here. No one masters the type of culinary show that chef Igy Vidal puts on quite like Igy himself and when Bloom and Vidal are on form, with fabulously skilled chef Titti Qvarnström in the driver’s seat, a meal here is memorable. This is indeed cooking with cojones. Take the bull by the horns, or in this case the cojones themselves with a breaded ‘meatball’ of bulls’ testicles nicely paired with a red wine laced stock sauce. Other delights? A Pata negra – often Joselito – of supreme quality; and foie gras for dessert. Yes, dessert. The fat, sweet foie gras is a perfect ice cream ingredient. The wines are European and served blind; seductively fun guesswork.