Fun on different levels. It’s got a wine bar downstairs and a relaxed vibe in the dining room upstairs – and is known for knockout good food and wine pairings. Pouilly-Fumé, ripe with elderflower and gooseberry, is matched with lightly brined fillet of cod and silky-smooth Grebbestad oysters – hiding under thinly sliced cucumber and watercress in a milky mussel broth shot with dill seed oil. And beautiful is not the right word here for the rock’n’roll dish of deer tartare with pulverized blood pudding and pork crackling with hollandaise noisette. It may look like road kill but it’s a veritable taste-orgy.