A world-class performance. This is one peerless dining room with stunningly high sculptured ceilings and buxom murals so resplendent they make the neighbouring Royal Palace look cheap. But that doesn’t put off the royals. The proprietary Catenacci family (head chef Stefano, and his younger brother) were behind Crown Princess Victoria’s wedding dinner. The Catenaccis celebrate their Italian roots and the kitchen excels in rustic reinvention; carbonara of ravioli with parmesan crème, smoked pata negra and a fondant of egg yolk; duck liver sausage with choucroute and homemade champagne vinegar mustard; and childishly delightful desserts such as the “peanut butter jelly sandwich” of roasted brioche with peanut butter, sorbet and mousse on banana, peanut crème and nougat macaroons.